Chapel Hill, North Carolina

“The feeling never leaves you”

No truer statement can be made after my recent trip to Chapel Hill. I have not been able to stop thinking of the unbelievable hospitality and friendliness that I experienced. Linda Ekeland, Sales Director of the Chapel Hill/Orange County Visitors Bureau, summed it up at breakfast on the last morning of the symposia by saying that we were all like old friends. I find it hard to believe that everyone we came in contact with was “on” for our benefit. I have heard of southern hospitality, but this was intense - in a good way. The symposium was of not only the sights of the area, but also the cuisine.

Residents refer to Chapel Hill as a “Southern part of heaven.” I see why. It is diverse, but everyone seems to be working toward a common goal - their community. People who move there feel the same way. The University of North Carolina was the first state chartered university in 1789. The Triangle Area (Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill) is the most progressive area of the state. In 1994, North Carolina was the first state to extend domestic partnership benefits. Joanne Fiore, the publisher of magazines and publications at the American Institute of CPAs, expressed how she was scared to death to move to a small southern town with her partner. In reality, they have more gay friends in Chapel Hill than they had in New York City. It is a more laid back community, with emphasis on personal relationships.

I stayed at the Siena Hotel, located on East Franklin Street, the main road through town. The hotel is modeled after a beautiful Tuscan Villa and furnished with European antiques, rich fabrics and colors. The hotel’s restaurant, Il Palio, is the only AAA Four Diamond Italian restaurant in the state. Although I did not have dinner there, the lunch and cocktail party that they catered was exquisite. The fried risotto balls and the butternut squash and mascarpone ravioli were unbelievable! Afterwards, a small group went into town. We walked around and took in the charm of the area surrounding the University of North Carolina. My intention was to take a taxi back to the hotel. However, there were so many shops, buildings and beautiful southern homes, complete with big wrap around porches, that a taxi was no longer an option. I had to see more. Walking allowed me to take in as much as possible.

“A Southern Season” is probably the region’s most famous specialty foods seller. There is an emphasis on local and regional delicacies, and a spectacular variety of gourmet foods and fine cookware. The store opened in 1975 as an 800 square foot coffee roastery, and has grown to be a 60,000 square foot marketplace. Our group was fortunate enough to partake in a private cooking class. Maureen and her staff were fun and knowledgeable. After many years of cooking, I even learned a few pointers. The cheese soufflé, grilled vegetables, and herbed chicken were finished off with individual molten chocolate cakes. What a feast!

On Friday evenings during the summer, The Carolina Inn hosts an event called “Fridays on the Front Porch.” Live bluegrass music, along with a full bar and food, created the perfect atmosphere to unwind, relax and get a jump start on the weekend. The Inn’s front lawn had plenty of seating under the oaks and magnolias. Next on the list was Crook’s Corner. This is one of the most influential restaurants in the South. Its first chef, the late Bill Eliot, put the restaurant on the culinary map with his now world famous shrimp and grits recipe. This dish was unbelievable. I had heard about the persimmon pudding, which happened to be on the menu that evening, so it was a must. I have never had anything so delicious in my life! The current chef, Bill Smith, has a cookbook which was a must purchase for me. He is quite personable, and chatted with me during dessert. We shared our love of food and cooking.

Carrboro, Chapel Hill’s neighboring town, is quaint and eclectic. In the center of town is the Carr Mill Mall. This 1898 cotton mill building houses some small shops. Not too far from the Carr Mill Mall is the Carrboro Farmer’s Market. The market is open on Saturdays and Wednesdays. It features local organic produce, cut flowers and artisan cheeses, to mention a few items. The market draws a diverse crowd. I felt that this was a part of most locals Saturday morning routine, not only for the goods sold, but for the chance to mingle with fellow townspeople.

On Saturday afternoon, the 25th Annual Durham Pride Parade and Festival was held on Duke University Campus. The support from young and old, gay and straight, and from local and corporate businesses was very inspiring.

The culmination of the weekend was a private cocktail party in the Hillsborough historic district. The party took place in the Greek revival home of Randy Campbell and Steven Burke. The couple’s home contains a large collection of American folk art buildings. It was amazing to see such a collection and be hosted by two genuine gentlemen. The house, It Has Wings, shares its name with a short story by Allan Gurganus. Mr. Gurganus, a Hillsborough resident and writer, read us the story in person.

I look forward to visiting Chapel Hill in the near future. I thoroughly enjoyed the beauty of the town along with the wonderful food. The most memorable part of the trip was the people who are Chapel Hill. The human connection was strong; as Linda said, it was like old friends getting together. I look forward to seeing them again!

If you would be interested in visiting Chapel Hill, please contact me at cj@travelwithmontecarlo.com or call 631-580-7188.

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